Saqqara

January 29, 2021

By Hector Gonzalez

February 2^nd, 2021

Like many things in this world, the most popular and famous thing is not the best. In Egypt, the Pyramids at Giza are the wonder to behold, but the visit itself is disappointing. While the actual structures are breathtaking, the presentation is underwhelming at best, and obnoxious at worst ("No, I don't want to ride your camel, thank you," is something you have to say way too many times, like every twenty seconds or so).

Just down the road, though, is Saqqara, the main necropolis of the ancient capital of Memphis, and home to several dozen pyramids, including Djoser's step pyramid, the very first pyramid ever built. There are almost no tourists and very few people trying to sell you things. The guides are friendly and knowledgeable and professional, and there is even a nice little museum that includes, because this is the cradle of civilization, the oldest known ceiling in the world. Go figure.

In other words, Saqqara is number two, so it tries harder. There is so much to see--and so few people determined to annoy you--that we were able to explore to our heart's content, and there was an entire section of the site that we didn't even get to. So I guess we'll have to go back someday.

I don't have much information about what we saw, but I'll try to explain it all a little.

Imhotep designed the first pyramid for the pharaoh Djoser. For his design, he was eventually declared a god.

Cobra heads. Apparently the walls were lined with these, but only a few remain.

I paid five bucks to get a picture of these guys. They also congratulated on my new president.

The nearby Bent Pyramid and Red Pyramid are visible from the Saqqara, but are best explored on a separate trip.

This is Unas's pyramid. Clearly, it was not built to last, at least not from the outside. However, the treasures inside remain. So of course we went in.

Note that the original paint is still visible in places.

The pharaoh's portrait is only visible through trick lighting. Pretty cool idea, if you ask me.

There are tons of non-pyramid tombs and temples to explore. I took three hundred pictures of the artwork. I won't show all of them, but here are some I really liked.

This was a princess. We were in her tomb. Clearly daddy's favorite.

This is dancing. I want to see this done for real.

Asa took these two photos with his own camera.

Check this out, this tomb was never finished, so you can still see the sketches for works that were never completed.

History's first out-and-proud couple? Two men buried together, depicted embracing. It's called the Tomb of Two Brothers, although they weren't brothers. Just good friends. Imagine.

And now, inside the main attraction: Djoser's pyramid. There isn't much to see once you're inside, but it's cool to be there.

From a rise behind the Step Pyramid, you can look south at the Bent and Red Pyramids, and north to the Great Pyramids at Giza. Which is itself a breathtaking sight.